SRI LANKA, ALSO KNOWN AS SERENDIB, TAPROBANE, CEYLAN AND MANY MORE...

(...) On my brother's wall in Toronto are the false maps. Old portraits of Ceylon.  The result of sightings, glances from trading vessels, the theories of sextant. Te shapes differ so much they seem to be translations - by Ptolemy, Mercator, Francois Valentyn, Mortier and Heydt - growing from mythic shapes into eventual accuracy. Amoeba, then stout rectangle, and then the island as we know it now, a pendant off the ear of India.
Around it, a blue-combed ocean busy with dolphin and sea-horse, cherub and compass. Ceylon floats on the Indian Ocean and holds its naive mountains, drawings of cassowary and boar who leap without perspective across imagined "desertum" and plain. At the edge of the maps the scrolled mantling depicts ferocious slipper-footed elephants, a white queen offering a necklace to natives who carry tusks and a conch, a Moorish king who stands amidst the power of books and armour. On the south-west corner of some charts are satyrs, hoof deep in foam, listening to the sound of the island, their tails writhing in the waves.

The maps reveal rumours of topography, the routes for invasion and trade, and the dark mind of travellers' tales appears throughout Arab and Chinese and medieval records. The island seduced all of Europe. The Portuguese. The Dutch. The English. And so its name changed, as well as its shape, - Serendip, Ratnapida ("island of gems"), Taprobane, Zeloan, Zeilan, Seyllan, Ceilon, and Ceylon - the wife of many marriages, courted by invaders who stepped ashore and claimed everything with the power of their sword or bible or language.
This pendant, once its shape stood still, became a mirror. It pretended to reflect each European power till newer ships arrived and spilled their nationalities, some of whom stayed or intermarried (...)".
Michael Ondaatje, "Running in the Family", 1982.

 

 

"Dell'isola di Seilla".

"Quando l'uomo si parte de l'isola de Angaman e va 1.000 miglia per ponente e per gherbino, truova l'isola di Seilla, ch'è la migliore isola del mondo di sua grandezza. E diròvi come ella gira 2.400 miglie. E sí vi dico  ch'anticamente ella fue via magiore, ché girava 3.600 miglia, secondo che dice la mapamundi; ma 'l vento a tramontana vi viene sí forte, che una grande parte à fatto andare sott'acqua.
Quest'isola sí à re che si chiama Sedemain. E' sono idoli e no fanno trebuto a neuno. E' vanno tutti ignudi, salvo lor natura. No ànno biade, ma riso, e ànno sosimain, onde fanno l'olio, e vivono di riso, di latt'e di carne; vino fanno degli àlbori ch'ò detto (di sopra). Or lasciamo andare questo, e conteròvi de le piú preziose cose del mondo.
Sapiate che ('n) quest'isola nasce li nobili e li buoni rubini, e non nasciono in niuno lugo del mondo piúe; e qui nasce zafini e topazi e amatisti, e alcune altre buone pietre preziose. E sí vi dico che 'l re di questa isola è il piú bello rubino del mondo, né che mai fue veduto; e diròvi com'è fatto. Egli è lungo presso a un palmo ed è grosso ben tanto come un braccio d'uomo; egli è la piú sprendiente cosa del mondo; egli non à neuna tecca, egli è vermiglio come fuoco; egli è di sí grande valuta che non si potrebbe comperare. E 'l Grande Kane mandò per questo rubino, e volea dare presso lo valer d'una città, ed elli disse che nol darebbe per cosa del mondo, però che fue de li suoi antichi. (...).
Il Milione, Marco Polo, 1298.

 

 

ENGLISH TRANSLATION
Of the Island of Zeilan.

"TAKING a departure from the island of Angaman, and steering a course something to the southward of west, for a thousand miles, the island of Zeilan presents itself. This, for its actual size, is better circumstanced than any other island in the world. It is in circuit two thousand four hundred miles, but in ancient times it was still larger, its circumference then measuring full three thousand six hundred miles, as the Mappa-Mundi says.  But the northern gales, which blow with prodigious violence, have in a manner corroded the mountains, so that they have in some parts fallen and sunk in the sea, and the island, from that cause, no longer retains its original size.   It is governed by a king whose name is Sender-naz. The people worship idols, and are independent of every other state. Both men and women go nearly in a state of nudity, only wrapping a cloth round the middle part of their bodies.  They have no grain besides rice and sesame, of which latter they make oil. Their food is milk, rice, and flesh, and they drink the wine drawn from trees, which has already been described.

There is here the best sappan-wood that can anywhere be met with. The island produces more beautiful and valuable rubies than are found in any other part of the world, and likewise sapphires, topazes, amethysts, garnets, and many other precious and costly stones.  The king is reported to possess the grandest ruby that ever was seen, being a span in length, and the thickness of a man's arm, brilliant beyond description, and without a single flaw. It has the appearance of a glowing fire, and upon the whole is so valuable that no estimation can be made of its worth in money. The Grand Khan, Kublaï, sent ambassadors to this monarch, with a request that he would yield to him the possession of this ruby; in return for which he should receive the value of a city. The answer he made was to this effect: that he would not sell it for all the treasure of the universe; nor could he on any terms suffer it to go out of his dominions, being a jewel handed down to him by his predecessors on the throne;  the Grand Khan failed therefore to acquire it. (...)".
The Travels of Marco Polo, 1298.

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WEST COAST BEACHES

Sri Lanka has over 1,000 miles of beautiful palm-shaded beaches and warm waters, with most of the main resorts concentrated on the west and south coast.

The West Coast is more frequented by holidaymakers due to its closer proximity to the island’s capital and the main airport and offers tropical beaches and mangrove-lined lagoons.

The sandy beaches are the main attraction in the string of small towns such as Kalutara, Beruwela, Bentota, Ambalangoda, Ahungalla and Hikkaduwa, but they also share a vibrant cultural heritage including folklore, music and dance as well as architectural influences from the Dutch period. Many temples, kovils, churches and mosques are situated along the coast.  Cottage industries such as basket-weaving, mask-carving and antique restoration provide for interesting shopping.

 DO NOT MISS:

•    Beach relaxations
•    Lively beach nights, restaurants, clubs & barbecues
•    Excursions in the surroundings
•    Family holidays

BEST PERIOD:

If you are planning a beach holiday in this area, the best time to go is November to April. The weather is drier and the sea is calm (though watch out for dangerous undertows on many of the beaches).

 COLOMBO | THE ISLAND'S CAPITAL

A hot and bustling city which few locals or tourists seem to love; far better to escape beyond it as soon as possible - but it's likely that you will end up spending a day or night there either end of your trip.
There are some joys to be had though. Take a stroll through the city of Colombo and experience this vibrant and yet laid back capital city with its mix of ethnic communities living; centuries old colonial period architecture to contemporary Geoffrey Bawa’s architecture; and road side eateries and restaurants serving a variety of local foods and beverage.

Personalized Colombo city walks are now on offer and will take up to three to four hours. The walks are conducted in the evening-time when it is less humid. The rate includes entry permits, hosting fee, food and beverages while on walk as well as a complimentary beer/wine at the end of the walk. Group of up to six guests are accommodated on this personalized experience. For those preferring to omit the walk and do only a drive through Colombo, there is also a `Colombo City night-drive’ on offer.

DO NOT MISS:

Go shopping:

Barefoot (704 Galle Road) has great sarongs and furnishing fabrics and Paradise Road (213 Dharmapala Mawatha Street) sells antiques, homeware and good quality crafts.
Have lunch at the cool Paradise Road Gallery Café, the former offices of Sri Lanka’s best known architect, Geoffrey Bawa (at 2 Alfred House Road).
At the end of the day take in a cool beer at the Galle Face Hotel - a colonial institution - while watching the sun set over the Indian Ocean. We highly recommend you stay at the intimate Havelock Place Bungalows, a former homestead turned gallery/boutique hotel; or at the supremely classy and elegant Park Street Hotel. For those wanting to be with the in-crowd, Casa Colombo is very funky if your budget can stretch. For tranquility not far from the airport, The Wallawa is perfect, while the friendly Mount Lodge offers laid-back hospitality in the beachside Mount Lavinia area.

BEST PERIOD:

All year round.

Events

Colombo’s streets come alive in January for the annual `Duruthu Perahara’ organised by the Kelaniya Temple and again in February for the `Navam Perehara’ organised by the Gangaramaya Temple.  These processions display traditional folklore, music and the rhythmic dance forms.  Dancers, drummers and flag bearers represent the different provinces. Chieftains in traditional attire and scores of elephants dressed in glittering cloaks are all a part of these colourful pageants. 

Vel, a Hindu festival that pays homage to Lord Murakan, takes place in July or August, where an ornately decorated Vel chariot, drawn by a pair of snow-white bulls carrying the statue of Lord Murukan, parades the streets of Colombo.  
The chariot moves slowly while the drums throb, the bells tinkle; the Tanjore band plays and a "Bajan" gathering singing divine songs follow the chariot.  The arts, sadly, remain largely inactive.

The most popular event in Colombo’s art calendar is the Kala Pola (art fair) held in February, which sees the shady sidewalks along Green Path filled with the creative works of local artists.

 CULTURAL TRIANGLE | NORTH-CENTRAL PROVINCE

The dry, flat area northeast of the Hill Country, bounded by Kandy, Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, is known as the Cultural Triangle.

The region covers Sri Lanka’s most famous cultural and archaeological sites - some dating back 2,500 years and containing the remains of the Sinhalese civilisation, which grew through the centuries under the influence of Buddhism.

At the heart of this triangle is Dambulla, perhaps the best base for exploring the sites. To the south, Kandy is also a possible starting point for exploring this region, with lots of places to stay.

 DO NOT MISS:

•    The extensive ruins of the former capitals, Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa
•    The climb up the giant rock King Kashyapa's fortress in Sigirya
•    Dambulla’s cave paintings and Buddha statues
•    The wooded walk through the ruins of Ritigala

BEST PERIOD:

All year round.

GALLE & SOUTHERN BEACHES | SOUTH COAST

Around the southernmost tip of Sri Lanka you will find miles of quiet beaches, small fishing villages, and the 17th-century Galle Fort. Galle is considered Sri Lanka's finest colonial town, although it was badly hit by the 2004 tsunami and is still being rebuilt. Other attractions in the area include the Kataluwa Buddhist temple, which is hidden in the jungle with some of the most interesting frescoes in Sri Lanka (and you don’t have to share it with busloads of tourists).
Between Unawatuna and Weligama, you can see the famous stilt fishermen at work, perched on stakes in the water fishing with a rod and line - the best place to see them is Ahangama. And don't miss the charming fishing town of Tangalle. However, most people flock to this area purely for the lovely beaches; Mirissa being our favourite.

  DO NOT MISS:

•    Surfing in Mirissa
•    Beach Relaxations
•    Scuba diving in Dickwella
•    Sailing and deep sea fishing at Mirissa Water Sports Centre
•    Turtle night safari in Rekawa Conservation Project
•    Whales and Dolfins Watching in Mirissa

BEST PERIOD:

If you are planning a beach holiday in this area, the best time to go is November to end of April. The weather is drier and the sea is calm (though watch out for dangerous undertows on many of the beaches). Galle Fort is suitable all year round. Remember also the Galle International Literary Festival, held every year during the month of February.

KANDY, THE LAST CAPITAL OF THE ANCIENT KINGS | HILL COUNTRY

The hill-country capital of Kandy lies on a plain amidst towering hills and looped by Sri Lanka's largest river: the Mahaweli. The town’s pleasant temperate climate, its scenic location and its rich history has made it a favourite haunt for travellers. It is also the natural gateway to the stirring peaks of Sri Lanka’s hill country. 

Now a tiny but bustling city, Kandy still regards itself as the bastion of Buddhist philosophy.  During the month of August, Kandy dazzles with the sounds and lights of the Kandy Perahera – a magnificent procession where a sacred tooth relic of Lord Buddha is majestically paraded on elephant back along the streets of Kandy. 115km/2.5 hours east of Colombo, driving or by train. 

Day trips can be made to explore the Buddhist temples, rock sculptures and ancient cities of the Cultural Triangle to the north - most are within about 2.5/3 hours drive of Kandy.

 DO NOT MISS:

•    A pooja at the Temple of the Tooth in honour of Lord Buddha
•    The Kandy Esala Perahera, one of the finest cultural festivals in Asia (July/August every year)
•    Roses and orchids in Peradeniya’s Botanical Gardens
•    Trekking in the magnificent Knuckles mountain range
•    Playing a round of Golf in Victoria Golf Course
•    Taking a Walk in Hantana Mountains and Tea museum
•    The Elegant Kandyan Dancers (known also as the cultural show)

BEST PERIOD:

The best time to go is January to May, as the rainy season has not started yet and you can enjoy magnificent walks in the surroundings hills and Knuckles Mountains. The roads during the rainy season can be muddy. However, Kandy worth always a visit, all year round. 

CENTRAL HILLS & THE TEA COUNTRY| NUWARA ELIYA, ELLA, BANDARAWELA

Few, if any, small islands have as much geographical diversity and Sri Lanka’s tea-growing hills offer breathtaking landscapes. Drive into the highlands from Kandy and discover Sri Lanka at its most dramatic: a land of gurgling mountain streams and steep hillsides cloaked in luminous green tea, sweet-scented Cyprus and Eucalyptus trees.

Nuwara Eliya, nestled at the foot of a mountain, was made into a  summer retreat by the British in the early 1800s and much of its colonial character still remains. 

Dickoya, Bandarawela, Haputale and  Ella are all quaint hill country towns and villages where life is peaceful and unhurried.  Those who have travelled this uphill journey by train  will confirm that it is one of the most enchanting train journeys in the world.

 DO NOT MISS:

•    Walk through lush green tea plantations, mountainous landscapes and rural villages
•    Take a train journey to the southern highlands
•    Spectacular vistas – viewed all the way from Haputale to the south coast on a clear day
•    Night-time climb up the sacred Adam’s Peak

BEST PERIOD:

The best time to go is January to May, as the rainy season has not started yet and you can enjoy magnificent walks in the surroundings hills. It is also "spring time" and lovely flowers are blooming during this period in Nuwara Eliya. However, if you want to discover how they cultivate and process tea, this is a destination that you cannot miss while in Sri Lanka. 

 

NORTHWEST COAST

Close proximity to the international airport ensures that the long sandy beaches of the Negombo coast have become one of the most popular beach resorts on the island. The town is often used as a staging post at the start or end of a Sri Lanka tour, as well as for a convenient beach holiday with minimal travel. But there is more to the North-West coast than Negombo’s tempting stretch of beach.

Ranging from Negombo, to Puttalam, and inland up to Kurunegala, the North-West province has a varied and enchanting landscape of  tranquil blue lagoons, small scattered islands, inland wetlands, and coconut plantations. Hundreds of Spinner Dolphins can be seen just minutes off the shores of Kalpitiya in the North West during the season from December to April.  Observed in pods, these Dolphins often swim along side the boats and frolic in the seas: a thrilling sight for children and adults alike. Wilpattu National Park, home to one of the world’s largest leopard population, finally re-opened to the public in 2010. Visit on a day trip - or, to really get a chance to see the full array of animals including elephants, wild buffalo, crocodiles and the illusive sloth-bear, stay at Kulu Safari's tented camp within the park.
Anawilundawa Bird Sanctuary, with its 3 types of habitat (mangrove, coastal and freshwater), is home to a huge range of migratory and native birds is not to be missed if you are remotely interested in ornithology.
The region also boasts many cultural sites - less well-known though every bit as impressive as in the Cultural Triangle (which is a 2-3 hour drive from here, and easily combined). Highlights include including the ancient capitals of Yapahuwa and Pandurasnuwara, rock temples and ancient rock inscriptions.
The countryside is dotted with ancient ‘tanks’ or reservoirs, centres for both rural life and local wildlife. 

DO NOT MISS:

•    Sailing on a Catamaran (local fisherman’s boat, uses the sail. No engine is fitted guided by the wind)
•    Deep Sea fishing in the Catamarans of Negombo
•    Dutch Canal boat ride
•    St. Mary’s Church in Negombo (1874, Strong influences of Portuguese)
•    Portuguese built fort (when the English took over by the Dutch they made it a prison and now only the Gates remain)
•    Dolphin and Whale-watching in Puttalam District (Kalpitiya)
•    Wilpattu National Park

BEST PERIOD:

If you are planning a beach holiday in this area, the best time to go is November to April. The weather is drier and the sea is calm (though watch out for dangerous undertows on many of the beaches).

THE UNSPOILT EAST COAST

Sri Lanka’s equivalent of the Maldives, with never-ending white sandy beaches, coral islands and shimmering blue seas, the East Coast is distinctly different from the coastal areas of the rest of the island. 

In a long season that extends from March to October, bask in the sun on the secluded beaches of Trincomalee or snorkel around the reefs of Pigeon Island. Arugam Bay, famously known as one of 10 best surf  spots in the world, is best from July/August, when the swells are high and the wave breaks are thrilling. But it is not all about sun and surf - explore ancient ruins and rock sculptures dating back centuries, as well as untouched wilderness, where elephants roam free.

 DO NOT MISS:

•    Breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean and Trincomalee harbor from Swami Rock.
•    Dive and snorkel in Pigeon Island.
•    Eating spicy Roti and fresh seafood at Arugambay’s Beach Hut Restaurant, Ranga’s.
•    Jungle trek to the 2nd century ruins of Kudubingala and Monastery.
•    Touring the Mangroves of Pottuvil lagoon with the fishermen.
•    Bird watching at Kumana National Park.
•    Unique village experiences in the Arugam Bay area.
•    Arugam Bay top 10 surfing destination (especially in July and August)
•    An Elephant safari at Lahugala National Park.

BEST PERIOD:

If you are planning a beach holiday in this area, the best time to go is March to October. The weather is drier and the sea is calm.

RIVERS AND RAINFORESTS | SINHARAJA

The towns of Kitulgala and Ratnapura are situated in the western foothills, sandwiched between the west coast and the central highlands.This is an area of rolling hills, tropical rainforests and winding rivers. 

The sleepy riverside village of Kitulgala owes its popularity to the Kelani River which offers exciting Grade 3 and 4 rapids for rafting. The breathtaking scenery here was used for the filming of the Oscar-winning classic “The Bridge over the River Kwai” by David Lean. 

Ratnapura, the `city of gems’, is home to a long-established gem industry.

The magnificent Sinharaja rainforest and the sacred Adam’s Peak can also be accessed from here.

 DO NOT MISS:

•    Whitewater rafting on Kelani River
•    Mountain biking in Kitulgala
•    Trekking in Sinharaja’s tropical rainforest
•    Visiting gem mines in Ratnapura
•    Magical night-time climb up the sacred Adam’s Peak

BEST PERIOD:

The best time to go is January to May, as the rainy season has not started yet and you can enjoy magnificent walks in the jungle and avoid unpleasant encounters (leeches)...

 

THE SOUTH-EAST COAST

To the north of the region, the Buttala Foothills are dominated by the green foothills of the central highlands and to the south the land is filled with scrub jungle, paddy fields and sugar cane plantations.
Further south, the Yala National Park is home to the greatest variety of Sri Lanka’s wildlife, including the sloth bear, herds of elephants, buffalo, sambar, crocodiles and the endangered leopard subspecies, Panthera Pardus Kotiya, which is only found in Sri Lanka. Experience the historic towns of Tissa and Kataragama – dominated by lotus-filled lakes, lush green paddy fields and giant dome-like Dagobas temples dating back to the second century BC, as well asjungle shrines to all the major religions on the island.

 

DO NOT MISS:

•    Tissa’s ancient Dagobas set amidst lush paddy fields
•    Pooja time at the Hindu shrines at Kataragama
•    The Elephant Orphanage at Udawalawe
•    The magnificent Yala leopard or bird watching at Bundala or Kalametiya.

BEST PERIOD:

All year round, though the best period to spot animals in Yala is during the dry season, which goes from January to May.